Beaver Wash · 6 ingredients · 6 cited studies

Behind The Beaver Wash.

The Beaver Wash combines a mild surfactant system with three clinically-supported leave-on actives. Niacinamide carries one of the strongest evidence bases in cosmetic dermatology for sebum control, pore appearance, and skin tone — and it's the headlining active here.

4 ingredients with STRONG clinical evidence
2 ingredients with MODERATE evidence
B3 5% niacinamide — the clinically studied concentration

The headlining active

Niacinamide does four things at once.

Few cosmetic actives are documented in this many separate clinical pathways. Niacinamide is one of them. The published mechanisms span the entire skin: from sebum production in the sebaceous gland, to melanocyte signaling, to barrier-lipid synthesis in the stratum corneum, to ceramide production at the cellular level.

B3 NIACINAMIDE 2–5% topical SEBUM REDUCTION Draelos 2006 RCT MELANOSOME INHIBITION Hakozaki 2002 PORE APPEARANCE Bissett 2005 RCT BARRIER SYNTHESIS Ceramide upregulation FOUR DOCUMENTED MECHANISMS · ONE INGREDIENT
Four separate mechanisms of action documented in the niacinamide literature: sebum production reduction (Draelos 2006), melanosome transfer inhibition driving skin tone improvement (Hakozaki 2002), pore appearance reduction (Bissett 2005), and stratum corneum barrier synthesis through ceramide upregulation. Few cosmetic actives have this many distinct clinical effects in the published record.

Every active, every citation

The receipts.

Three of the six ingredients have multiple human clinical trials behind them. The cleansing system (SLSA + kaolin) is the same one documented for the Beaver Scrub.

01

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

INCI · Niacinamide

●●● STRONG CLINICAL EVIDENCE

One of the most extensively studied cosmetic actives in modern dermatology. Documented to reduce sebum production, minimize pore appearance, improve skin tone, and strengthen the skin barrier. Active concentration 2–5%.

Anti-Aging Clinical · 2005 · 5% topical

Bissett, D.L., Oblong, J.E., & Berge, C.A. "Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance." Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7 Pt 2), 860–865.

Finding: Clinical study documenting reduction in fine lines, hyperpigmentation, red blotchiness, sallowness, and skin elasticity improvements at 5% niacinamide.

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Sebum Clinical · 2006 · 2% topical

Draelos, Z.D., Matsubara, A., & Smiles, K. "The effect of 2 percent niacinamide on facial sebum production." Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 8(2), 96–101.

Finding: Clinical study demonstrating measurable reduction in sebum excretion rate after topical niacinamide application. Statistically significant for oily-skin populations.

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Mechanism · 2002 · Pigment transfer

Hakozaki, T., et al. "The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer." British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31.

Finding: Mechanism study demonstrating niacinamide's role in interrupting melanosome transfer, leading to documented skin tone improvements.

Read on PubMed →
02

Glycerin

INCI · Glycerin

●●● STRONG CLINICAL EVIDENCE

Among the most-studied humectants in skincare. Documented to draw water into the stratum corneum, accelerate skin barrier recovery, and provide measurable hydration improvements.

Comprehensive Review · 2008

Fluhr, J.W., Darlenski, R., & Surber, C. "Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions." British Journal of Dermatology, 159(1), 23–34.

Finding: Comprehensive review of glycerin's mechanisms in skin barrier function, hydration, and recovery from irritation.

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03

Allantoin

INCI · Allantoin

●●● STRONG CLINICAL EVIDENCE

FDA-recognized OTC Skin Protectant (21 CFR 347). In a face wash, allantoin counteracts the natural drying tendency of surfactants and adds an anti-irritant active layer. See Behind The Seal for the full mechanism breakdown.

Safety Assessment · 2010

Becker, L.C., et al. "Final report of the safety assessment of Allantoin and its related complexes." International Journal of Toxicology, 29(3 Suppl), 84S–97S.

Finding: CIR Expert Panel concluded allantoin is safe in current practices of use. Documented anti-irritant and cell-proliferation properties.

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04

Panthenol (Provitamin B5)

INCI · DL-Panthenol

●●● STRONG CLINICAL EVIDENCE

In a face wash, panthenol penetrates during the contact time and supports stratum corneum hydration and barrier integrity post-rinse. Active ingredient in Bepanthen and many medical-grade skincare products. See Behind The Seal for the full mechanism breakdown.

Clinical Review · 2002

Ebner, F., Heller, A., Rippke, F., & Tausch, I. "Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders." American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 3(6), 427–433.

Finding: Comprehensive review documenting panthenol's clinical benefits in wound healing, skin barrier improvement, and dermatologic conditions.

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05

Willow Bark Extract

INCI · Salix Alba Bark Extract

●●○ MODERATE EVIDENCE

Natural source of salicin — a precursor to salicylic acid (beta-hydroxy acid). Documented mild keratolytic and anti-inflammatory effects, useful for gentle pore-clearing in oily skin without the regulatory complexity of pure salicylic acid.

Hydroxy Acid Review · 2010 · Open Access

Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S.G., & Hearing, V.J. "Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity." Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142.

Finding: Review covering salicylic acid and its precursors. Documents keratolytic mechanism and use in oily and acne-prone skin.

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Willow Chemistry · 2010

Mahdi, J.G. "Medicinal potential of willow: A chemical perspective of aspirin discovery." Journal of Saudi Chemical Society, 14(3), 317–322.

Finding: Reviews salicin chemistry, its conversion to active salicylate compounds, and documented dermatologic and anti-inflammatory effects.

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06

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA)

INCI · Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate

●○○ SUPPORTING RESEARCH

In the face wash, SLSA provides the dramatic foam volume customers associate with effective cleansing while remaining significantly milder than SLS. See Behind The Scrub for the full chemistry breakdown.

CIR Safety Assessment · 2019

Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). "Safety Assessment of Sulfoacetic Acid and Salts as Used in Cosmetics." International Journal of Toxicology, 38(3 Suppl), 5S–19S.

Finding: CIR Expert Panel concluded SLSA is safe in cosmetic products at current use concentrations. Notes significantly lower skin irritation potential vs SLS.

Read on PubMed →
07

Kaolin Clay

INCI · Kaolin

●●○ MODERATE EVIDENCE

In the face wash, kaolin contributes the cloudy-white appearance and oil-absorption properties valued in oily-skin formulations. See Behind The Scrub for the full clay-chemistry breakdown.

Clay Mineral Review · 2010

Williams, L.B., & Haydel, S.E. "Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents." International Geology Review, 52(7-8), 745–770.

Finding: Reviews documented antibacterial and absorbent properties of kaolin and related clays. Notes long-standing dermatologic and pharmaceutical use.

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